RAM (Random Access Memory)is a type of computer memory that is used to store data and machine code currently being used. RAM is critical to your machine because it serves as the computer's short-term memory, allowing your system to access data quickly and perform tasks efficiently. The role of RAM in system performance is fundamental and multifaceted, impacting virtually every aspect of computer operations. It allows data to be read and written quickly, in any order, typically much faster than other types of storage, such as hard disks, SSDs, or optical drives.

Many types of RAM vary in size, frequency, and type. We refer to them as "sticks" designed to snap easily into your motherboard. Knowing a bit about your RAM is super helpful. Upgrading your RAM is often the most cost-effective upgrade to any computer.

As important as RAM is, having faulty RAM in the system can cause many frustrating issues that are often hard to diagnose.

We often have strange errors with our computers, odd beeping, random crashes and freezing, performance issues, etc. We usually look to a software solution to these problems, like updating drivers and software and running repair tools like SFC -- which is often the case. However, the truth is that software issues do not cause all problems; quite often, problems like these are caused by insufficient or bad RAM.

A typical scenario of how RAM works is this: Data is pulled from your hard drive, put into RAM, used by your CPU, returned to the RAM, and then stored back to your hard drive. It is easy to imagine how a faulty bit on a stick or RAM can cause issues like Blue Screens, corrupted data, boot issues, and even graphics problems. (Your video card may have as much RAM as your PC.) Or, without enough RAM, how could you create excessive swapping of data back and forth to the slower hard drive -- creating poor performance?

A good rule of thumb for Bad RAM symptoms is if the PC problem seems random -- it's likely a memory issue.

Troubleshooting RAM problems
The machine I am working on is having random lockup issues, and after some work, I suspect a RAM problem. If you suspect your RAM is faulty, use the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool, MemTest86 or MemTest86+, to test your memory for errors.

These tools will run several tests on your RAM to check for faults. If errors are found, the solution typically involves replacing the faulty RAM sticks. Doing so is a very, very easy process. Turn off your PC and Open the case. You push out the locks holding the RAM to release, plug out the old stick, and push the new one in until the locks snap back. Still, new things are often scary, so many videos on YouTube can boost your confidence on how to physically remove and replace the stick -- However, now that you have decided to replace /upgrade the RAM, you will need to know the type.


How do you know what type of RAM to buy?

The type of RAM is determined by what your motherboard can use. It helps to get familiar with a few terms to know what you are looking at when replacing.

Type or DDR Generation: RAM comes in different generations, such as DDR3, DDR4, and DDR5, with DDR4 and DDR5 being the most common in newer systems. Each generation has a distinct notch position on the module, preventing the installation of an incompatible type.
Frequency/Speed: Measured in MHz (megahertz), this indicates how fast the RAM operates. Higher frequencies can improve performance, but the motherboard must support the RAM's speed. Common speeds for DDR4 include 2400 MHz, 2666 MHz, 3200 MHz, and higher. DDR5 starts from 4800 MHz and goes up.
Capacity: RAM capacity, measured in gigabytes (GB), is crucial for multitasking and running memory-intensive applications. Common sizes per stick are 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, and 32 GB. Your motherboard and operating system limit the total capacity your system can use.
CAS Latency (CL): This is the delay time between when a command is entered and when it is executed. Lower CAS latency means faster access to data. RAM sticks list timings as a series of numbers (e.g., 16-18-18-38), where the first number is the CAS latency.
Voltage: Most DDR4 RAM operates at 1.2V, and DDR5 has a standard voltage of around 1.1V. Ensure the RAM's voltage requirement matches what your motherboard supports to maintain system stability.
Form Factor: DIMM vs. SO-DIMM: DIMM (Dual In-line Memory Module) is standard for desktops, while SO-DIMM (Small Outline DIMM) is used in laptops and some compact PCs. Ensure you choose the correct form factor for your device.

Confused yet? Don't Panic. You are trying to boil what you are looking for down to something like: "I need a 16 GB DDR 4 DIMM at 2666 MHz". Bonus: a phrase like that makes you sound like a wizard to your friends.

Here are some steps you can take to help you figure out what RAM you need:

Visually Inspect:
The first thing is to look at the RAM stick. Typically, there will be a sticker label on the actual RAM. This label makes life really easy if you are just swapping one out for another.

I grabbed a few old sticks out of my spare parts bucket, and you can see most have specs on them that you can type in and find a replacement. Also, notice that the SO-DIMM is about half the size of a DIMM. But one has no marks or notations. That is problematic if you are looking for a replacement. (Mad Geek points to anyone who can name what that one is) But we have ways of finding out.



Identify Your Motherboard Model
It is very helpful to know your motherboard's make and model because different motherboards support different types, speeds, and sizes of RAM. You can find this information through:

System Information on Windows: Type "System Information" or in the search bar, and look for the Manufacturer, product, and version of the motherboard. Or some documentation on your specific board came with the purchase. The motherboard manual will tell you what type of memory you can use, how many slots you have, and the maximum capacity.

In this case, System Information tells me I am typing on a Dell XPS8910. Here, Google is my friend, and I can search for that build and easily find the manual and memory type for this computer from that Manufacturer's website.

If you really want to get geeky with it, you can
Right-click on your Windows Icon, choose Open Powershell, and copy in this command.

Get-WmiObject win32_baseboard | Format-List Product,Manufacturer,SerialNumber, Version

Or open the Command Prompt (win+r and type cmd in the box, then press enter. Then type:

wmic baseboard get product, Manufacturer,version,serialnumber

Then, google search for the product number, which will give you the motherboard, and from there, you can google the manual.

Software Solutions:

OK - let's say you're stuck. System Information didn't help, the product number didn't help, and you threw out their manual with the PC's packaging like everyone else. Don't panic; several excellent software tools are listed here that can help you. Here are a few:

CPU-Z: freeware that gathers information on some of the main devices of your system, including CPU, Mainboard, Memory, and System.
HWiNFO: hardware analysis, monitoring, and reporting tool that provides extensive details about all your computer's components, including RAM.
Belarc Advisor:offers a detailed profile of your installed software and hardware. The report provides specifics on memory modules, including types, slots, and sizes.

Bonus Pick: Crucial Online Scanner: scans your computer to provide a list of compatible upgrades. The plus is you can buy the correct stick right from the interface.

As you can see, I ran Belarc, CPU-Z, HWiNFO, and Crucial reports on this machine and between them. The RAM passed inspection - so there are no issues there. With varying layouts, we can determine that this machine has 1 DIMM of 16 Gig DDR4-2133 at 1.20 volts. (Sad, right?) But that could be the problem: modern machines need more and more RAM. 1^ Gig may just not be enough.

Noteworthy is that there are four slots to use RAM, and only one is used. (Cruical This means I could easily put anywhere from one - to three more 16 Gig sticks in this box, which should breathe some serious life into the old war horse and likely eliminate the lockups -- which is why I was looking into this machine. Another point of note here: You want to have at least two DIMM modules in a machine with a dual-channel interface. Having only one DIMM socket populated can have a serious performance impact. The machine is like 30% slower in some workloads. PC manufacturers will often only put in one stick to save money and entice you to buy. Four modules may also cause some slight slowdowns on dual-channel machines because they cause higher stress on the memory controller, but when working with large memory using applications like graphics or gaming - the trade-off is generally worth it.




If I don't want to buy from Crucial, I can pop that info into an Amazon search, and boom - I have my replacement/upgrade RAM in the cart and on the way. Tip: Don't buy the cheapest unless you want to read this article again.

And there you have it; in a few steps, you too can quickly identify and either upgrade or replace the RAM in your PC with nearly zero stress.
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